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Saturday, March 14, 2009

Sad Phnom Penh (Part I/II)

Phnom Penh, being the capital of Cambodia receives far less visitors as compared to Siem reap further north west. Instead of being engulf in the rush to see the world famous heritage, Phnom Penh feels like a butterfly trying to emerge out of its cocoon while at the same time still being wounded by it's history. As you wander the streets of Phnom penh and understand what the people of this land had been through. You can almost feel 2 different sides of cambodia here. One plagued by the terrible history of killing during the khmer rouge rule and the other modern day city in the making.

Special for Phnom Penh, i had split it in 2 different blog spot. Part I Sad Phnom Penh and Part II the happier side of it. I believe that anyone who wants to experience Phnom Penh to the fullest would definitely have to understand and separate this 2 side of it.

The Killing Fields. Choeung Ek Genocide Museum. Located 10km south of central Phnom Penh. Admission US$2.

There are 2 main sites to understand and experience the cruelness of the killings in cambodia. The first would be Choeung Ek Genocide Museum, also known as the killing fields. Even though it is a museum, it hardly feels like one. The fields is a very solem and sad place where prisoners to be executed were brought to. Right after you enter the compound is the tower of skulls. In it are levels after levels of skulls, dug out in this particular area. The prisoners after being killed are buried in holes and left covered with dirt.

Looking up at the tower of skulls, you could almost hear the screaming and shouting of the victims happening before you. A far cry from the sound of children playing in the school next door right now.




As you walk along the enclosure, you will see many holes on the ground which just 30 years ago, housed the bodies of the cruel act.





To further educate people on the cruelness of the Khmer Rouge, Tuol Sleng Museum, previously a high school turned prison is open for public(US$2). Located in the city central near the Russian market, it is not difficult to find. Everyday at 10am and 3pm, they will screen a documentary which follows the story of a victim named Baphana. Through her role in this civil war, the history and sufferings would be brought before your eyes. It is highly recommended that you time your visit to the videos.
In the 3 buildings, you will see many pictures of detainees who once suffered in the compound, various methods and tools of torture used and the biography of the rare survivors and militia of this prison.





As you look into the eyes of each and every face, you can sense that behind these eyes is a painful and sorrowful tale waiting to be unfolded.
Khmer Rouge said:"It is better to arrest ten people by mistake than to let one guilty person go free"


Overall it is a very humbling experience and even when you start to walk out of the compound and back to real time(before being harassed by tuk tuk and motos again), you will uncontrollably feel a deep sense of melancholy descend upon you.

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