My home in Chambok

While in cambodia, i found out about this ecotourism project at a national park south of Phnom Penh that i wanted to go. Fortunately for me, there is a head office of the organise in Phnom Penh.
Mlup Baitong

Chambok Eco Tourism Site
www.geocities.com/chambokcbet/

I walked into the office and was greeted by several surprised staffs. They rarely had independent travelers like me turning up at their office just like that. I was attended by lovely sylvie who helped answer all my queries. She told me that some of their staffs are going to the branch office near the national park and she said i could tag along with them! Otherwise going there on my own would be a chore with many change of transport.

My good friend Sylvie email Add
aedmlup@online.com.kh

On the day of departure, i was told we would leave at 2pm. Because of the heavy work load, Rithy, Sunheang and 3 other staff only manage to clear everything at 4.30pm.

Off we go, 5 grown man squeeze into this extremely small car. Since i was the "guest" i got the comfortable front seat. And for the first time in my life, i had 2 drivers!! One person is driving and the other squeezed into the same small seat!

The ride there was very a very pleasant one. I learned alot about the people in cambodia, Mlup Baitong, the way the organisation functions and the many limitations they face while operating.

It was dark and late by the time we arrived at the branch office and for safety reasons, they invited me to stay overnight at their branch office. The people at the office were really very nice, making sure i am well taken care of. The laughter and conversation lasted the whole night, even while lying under the mosquito net. The whole day while being just an ordinary one, exists as a very special experience to me. If you ever do meet these guys, do send my regards to them.

At Chambok, i was introduced to My Phon Thy(pronounced Tee) tel: 017363480, my guide for the stay there. He is a very nice young chap who speaks very good english and really wants to do more for his commune. There are a few activities that you can do there. Waterfall, rivers, lakes, caves etc. However compared to elsewhere in Asia, the experience is rather average. 40m waterfall in the dry season. Measured by Thy personally using a vine!
Bat caves

This commune Chambok is actually very backwards in terms of infrastructure. There is no proper electric or water lines running in the area. For electricity, they depend on fuel generator which can be expensive to maintain and for water, they depend on 1 single pipeline running from the waterfall into the homes in the village. Of course i asked Thy to bring me to see it. This single improvised filter here provides water to the several houses at the foot of the hill. In fact, there are many more villages that do not have proper water supply.1 single important pipeline

In the afternoon, Rebecca a german volunteer from Mlup Baitong comes to the village to teach english and general knowledge to the people here. Students here not only include children but also the village chief as well as my homestay host Cham who is already a father. Spent an afternoon with the kids Tu en(black ass they call him), Ali(shy village girl), Luck(hip dressing 16 year old), Phuck(16 year old sweet girl).

Meals during my stay is had at the Women's restaurant. This is the place where the ladies in the village rotate to work for supplement income. Because for most of the time, i am the only "guest" around, i was always invited to eat with all the people working there. Truly an unique experience. Rice paper in the makingThroughout the 2 days in Chambok, my guide Thy was with me all the time, bringing me to where i want to go Waterfall He told me that there is short cut down the waterfall back to the village and this was it! Slide down a 5m long tree trunk!

On the last day, Thy said he wanted to bring me to do some swimming. Needless to say, i was glad and i merely made a passing remark that it would be great if everyone could go together.

When I arrive at the swimming spot, i was surprised to see EVERYBODY there! From Mlup Baitong, the women's restaurant and even Rebecca gave her class a day off and everybody went to swim with me! The boys from the classEverybody i know was there!Black Ass and PhuckLuck doing our signature chicken dance!Cham my homestay host at the bottomPhuckLady from women restaurant(Also Thy's Aunt)

Singing at the top
Which we have to climb past HUGE red ants infested rocks Chicken dance!
and more chicken dance!

Because it is my last night there, Cham thoughtfully prepared a dinner party for me and what is for dinner? Roast chicken! After so much chicken dance, we ought to have some chick!

After a sad goodbye to all my friends in chambok, i made my way back to the main road with Thy. Thanks to all the people and hospitality i received from the people there. It has made this the highlight of my stay in cambodia. Angkor wat doesnt even come close. I certainly see much hope in the people of this commune.

Total expenses

Homestay: US$3/night
Entrance to Site: US$3
Meals: US$2.5/meal
Guide: US$15/day

Compared to many other villages i have seen in and area cambodia, the price here is actually very inexpensive. And you know that the money will go towards providing a better living environment for the people here. Definitely a MUST DO if you are in the area.

Who says you cant sit in the boot of a car?

Hopeful Cambodia

Ever wondered how did the name Phnom Penh came about?

To put it simply, Phnom in Khmer means Hill and Penh is actually the name of the lady who "discovered" this place. In the center of town, there is a temple hill that houses a figure of this lady. To the locals, this is where you want to go if you would like to strike lottery.
Mrs Penh
Devotees galore

One point to note when visiting Phnom penh, do avoid staying anywhere near the lake. Even though the accommodations there are cheaper than other parts of town. It is a very dodgy and dirty area. I walked in wanting to look for a place to stay and within 5minutes, I had people asking me if i want to special massage, boom boom(whatever that means) and weed. Needless to say, I turned around before even venturing any further.
Street life shots Street life shots

Walking along the streets of Phnom Penh, one thing that you will experience is the harassment of the plentiful moto taxis on the street. Every single corner, every single turn you make, you have people motioning you onto the back of their motorcycles, even if they do not know where you want to go.

A typical situation works like this.

You turn a corner and see several men sitting on their motorcycle at the corner. One raises his hand and waves to me. "Hey you, yo, where you go?"

Shakes head "No where , just taking a walk"
Driver "Ok, you come, I bring you"

As I walked on and ignore the man, another man on motorcycle 5paces away, observing the whole thing raises his hand and waves to me again...

I decided to do an experiment one of the days and I was approached a total of 61 times in a period of just a few hours!!

In cambodia, there is this special cloth that you will see many locals donning. Karma, the name of this cloth is especially popular with the older generations and the people from the countryside. To the modern day youngsters, it has lost its appeal. What makes Karma special is the numerous ways to use it. It can be a used as a scarf, a face mask, a handkerchief, a hat, a temporary skirt, to carry a baby, to carry groceries, to use as a ground mat, a towel, a table cloth, to wipe your nose, to clean up after toilet if you forget to bring paper and to strangle anybody who tries a fast one on you.

Alright, I made up the last 2. Nevertheless, the possibilities are endless with this. Anything and everything will be used with this. If you ever fancy getting one to use(or for souvenir) you can easily purchase one for US$1-3 at any market.
Popular with females
And with males

To cover your head which is already covered by a hat

Close to 2 months of traveling, i am in need of a haircut. Not that my hair was very long. It is just too impractical for traveling. I was very tempted to go to a traditional hole in the wall with old man shop but after thinking, decided it is too much of a risk. I walked past a high school and saw a chic and modern place with posters of pop stars and young lad cutting. I decided to give it a try and i have to say, he is not bad at handling his tools. In the end, i was shocked when he told me it is just $1!! Even though it is just 1 US and the cheapest cut i ever got, it turned out pretty alright.

I had some time to spare and with suggestions from my cambodian friend, i was directed to the olympic stadium in the evening.

The moment i walked in, i was handed a flyer and this girl wearing a red shirt started talking very quickly in khmer. She talked with such passion and enthusiasm that i just couldn't bear to cut her speech so i kept nodding and acted like i understood what she said!! After a minute or so, she stopped and i shyly told her "sorry i dont understand khmer". She let out a huge laugh and repeated everything in english again!

Turns out she and her friends from university are here to sell some food items and the sales results would determine their grades. After the hilarious moment, how could i not help them out, especially since i would be in the same shoes a few months later.

As the whole stadium starts to unfold before me, i saw lots and lots of people dancing in unison at on the perimeter of the grandstand. Believe me, the number of people is simple astonishing and with their actions unified, i stood there for a few minutes just amazed by what i saw.

Dancing in the sunset

The music they are dancing to includes many modern day songs, chinese techno and traditional khmer music. People regardless of gender and age were dancing to the lead of a instructor of sort. Unlike aerobics or exercise, they are actually doing modern dance, those that you see on tv or performances!!

I would rate this place a MUST SEE if you ever come to Phnom PenhIt is so interesting, it kept me there till the sky turned dark
Young and old, you can be the next Rain
Other than dancing, many people are also there to jog

Compared to the depressing past of the country, this side of cambodia is now full of energy and brimming with hope for the future, just like the fireflies dancing amidst the rubbish that i saw on the way out.

In Phnom Penh, there are a couple of markets worth checking out. The first would be the central market, not to buy anything since the prices are higher than others, rather to admire the dome architectural of the building. The dome shape center actually allows a very good ventilation in the hot city.

2nd would be The russian market. This is where you would want to get all your souvenirs, karmas and knock offs branded clothing at a fraction of the original price. As usual, expect to bargain hard as many tourist pass by here everyday. It is also near S21 Tuol Sleng museum which makes it an easy day trip for both.

Last would be Psar O Russay located smack in the middle of the city. This place is built by locals for locals. Photographers would find this place especially interesting.
The first floor where household items can be found. Anything you would ever need is here, plus all the groceries, meat, fruits and cooked food.
The 2nd floor is stocked with many shoes, stationary, books and dictionary.
More impressive is the 3rd floor which many clothing and fashion items with many shops selling prom like dresses. In fact, if you are going to a prom, everything you would ever need is here. Dress, shoe, make up services, accessories, jewels, sequins, hair cut and style, facial products to make your skin pearly white, nails service, hand bags, inner garments, watches, soft toy to carry around the dance floor and even a whole new set for the after prom party. Guys be warned, do not bring your girls here unless you are willing to be stuck for more than 2 hours.

What happens if there is no space in the vehicle? Tie it outside!
On my last day, 1week after Chinese new year, they have this lion dance event, similar to the one in singapore.
Recognize him?
Picture of the post

Sad Phnom Penh (Part I/II)

Phnom Penh, being the capital of Cambodia receives far less visitors as compared to Siem reap further north west. Instead of being engulf in the rush to see the world famous heritage, Phnom Penh feels like a butterfly trying to emerge out of its cocoon while at the same time still being wounded by it's history. As you wander the streets of Phnom penh and understand what the people of this land had been through. You can almost feel 2 different sides of cambodia here. One plagued by the terrible history of killing during the khmer rouge rule and the other modern day city in the making.

Special for Phnom Penh, i had split it in 2 different blog spot. Part I Sad Phnom Penh and Part II the happier side of it. I believe that anyone who wants to experience Phnom Penh to the fullest would definitely have to understand and separate this 2 side of it.

The Killing Fields. Choeung Ek Genocide Museum. Located 10km south of central Phnom Penh. Admission US$2.

There are 2 main sites to understand and experience the cruelness of the killings in cambodia. The first would be Choeung Ek Genocide Museum, also known as the killing fields. Even though it is a museum, it hardly feels like one. The fields is a very solem and sad place where prisoners to be executed were brought to. Right after you enter the compound is the tower of skulls. In it are levels after levels of skulls, dug out in this particular area. The prisoners after being killed are buried in holes and left covered with dirt.

Looking up at the tower of skulls, you could almost hear the screaming and shouting of the victims happening before you. A far cry from the sound of children playing in the school next door right now.




As you walk along the enclosure, you will see many holes on the ground which just 30 years ago, housed the bodies of the cruel act.

To further educate people on the cruelness of the Khmer Rouge, Tuol Sleng Museum, previously a high school turned prison is open for public(US$2). Located in the city central near the Russian market, it is not difficult to find. Everyday at 10am and 3pm, they will screen a documentary which follows the story of a victim named Baphana. Through her role in this civil war, the history and sufferings would be brought before your eyes. It is highly recommended that you time your visit to the videos.
In the 3 buildings, you will see many pictures of detainees who once suffered in the compound, various methods and tools of torture used and the biography of the rare survivors and militia of this prison.





As you look into the eyes of each and every face, you can sense that behind these eyes is a painful and sorrowful tale waiting to be unfolded.
Khmer Rouge said:"It is better to arrest ten people by mistake than to let one guilty person go free"

Overall it is a very humbling experience and even when you start to walk out of the compound and back to real time(before being harassed by tuk tuk and motos again), you will uncontrollably feel a deep sense of melancholy descend upon you.