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Wednesday, February 11, 2009

Boring capital of Laos - Vientiane

Upon reaching Vientiane, i had a very difficult time looking for a place to stay. Being a big city, i would expect there to be a big range of different lodgings. The 3 that i narrowed down to be the cheapest were either full, closed for renovation or is a rubbish dump. The rest of the guesthouse is just downright expensive for its worth. After an hour of searching with my 10kg backpack, I have to bite the bullet and settle for a very basic and clean Joe Guesthouse (50k kip=$10). For this price i am paying, i dont even have a toilet of my own. :(
Joe Guesthouse(50k kip=$10) Ouch!
Decided to talk a walk to the main market in the capital, Talat Sao market. Which also comprises of a bus station and a shopping mall. On the way there, i saw Oliver (Shanghai guy i met in Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng) riding a pink bicycle in his bright orange jacket! And the weather is super hot!

Talat Sao shopping mall really resembles MBK shopping center in Bangkok. Lots of clothings, gifts and many pirated stuff to be found.

Openly selling pirated movies!
Talat Sao Shopping Center. Paradise for the female gender
Much-needed chocolate waffle
Many Vietnam-influenced food here

While scouring the streets, i came across this sign Yensabai Show and decided to go check it out. While buying the tickets for the show (US$7), i was greeted by yet another Anehasayo!! by 2 middle age korean ladies who are waiting for the show. Through them, i came to know that this show is partly sponsored and supported by the Korean community and that explained why half of the audience are Koreans and there is even a Korean description about the show. Traditional Laos dance
Stick dance
Little gift at the end
Piece of orange string haha!
And they invite you for a short intro to Laos dance at the end
The end!

Being the capital, Vientiane is rather bland in terms of sights and attractions compared to other towns. For me, the main focus of my stay here would be trying the different varieties of food here. Usually when i eat, i always choose the one full of locals. Even though this noodle soup looks commonly bland, it is by far the best soup i have tasted in Laos. And cheap too 10k kip=$2
Be warned that most shops have menus that look like this, unless you can read Laos. The only way is to point to a random one and hope for the best.
Another popular hole in the wall shop with tasty food. Crispy noodle with beef gravy, my 2nd dinner for the night. (13k kip=$2.50)
Vietnamese food! (again it was very crowded the night before)

The next day i hopped on a bus to Xieng Khuan Buddha Park (5k kip=$1 admission). One of the few sights available in this place. packed to the brim mini bus(5k kip=$1). Take bus no. 14 from Talat Sao bus staion
Weird statue considering this is buddha park. Is this even a buddha?
Arrow to the head!!
Many morecheeky monk! Anyway he was the one who told me that the structure we were on is called the Tree of Thorns where sinners would have to climb. Ouch!
Remember this picture i took for CNY
This is where i was when i took it. We entered through the mouth, climb a series of narrow stairs and emerge at the bottom of the tree at the top! Phew!
Great Stupa, Phat That Luang. An iconic monument in Laos

It cost another 5k kip to go into the compound and i would seriously recommend saving it. There is nothing inside at all, just the fact that you can get close to the Stupa. Truth be told, it looks far more grand from afar.

After just 2 days, Vientiane is starting to bore me. There really is very little to do here and so i decided to move on the next day. My last dinner in the capital of course had to be something special. Went to Ban Anou night market which is a small 20m side alley with a dozen stalls selling all kinds of food. Dinner for tonight? BBQ by the riverside sunset. Street snack made of coconut
BBQ meat, a favourite of Lao people. You can find this practically EVERYWHERE in Laos
Delicious meat jerky. One of the tastiest meat i ever had
Of course, the famous BBQ chicken with a big bag of sticky riceCycled to the riverside together with my food for a sunset picnic!

Next destination, adventourous Tha khaek!

Saturday, February 7, 2009

1 month of travelling!! Vang Vieng-Laos!

"Vang Vieng! Vang Vieng!"the bus conductor shouted from the front of the bus as the bus pulled to a halt in the middle of nowhere.

8.30pm and everywhere is pitch dark. Oliver and me walked on, hoping to find the town center in hope of securing a roof over our head. Problem is we had no idea where we are. Fortunately we chanced upon a GH where we quickly dumped our bags and asked for directions.

We were led to a huge tent area where loud laos music could be head echoing miles away. A wedding party! They had probably 70 over tables full of people, a huge stage with live band and singer and dozens of people dancing laos style in the middle. We asked permission to enter and took some pictures. Our first encounter with laos wedding! Newly weds!Ladies on the "dance floor"
Wedding pictures local and western style
Jan 11 Sunday. This day that marks my first 30 days of travelling! 6 more to go! Time really do flies quickly when you are having fun. On the bus here to vang vieng, we passed by really nice villages and we really wanted to go back and visit these villages. With a motorcycle we rented(58k kip=$10.50) the both of us rode on away towards the highway!
Local laos noodles which looks average and taste heavenly(10k kip=$2)
Cursed motorcycle[40k(rent) + 18k(gas) + 70k(repairs total $23)]
Great views along the wayAccompanied by the river
The first thing we encountered? Yet another wedding! this time on a much smaller scale and situated in the backyard of a house.
Local wedding No.2
Similar to other weddings, the folks would be at the entrance welcoming guests
You can only imagine how much beer is consumed in this 1 day
This is where guest will put their monetary blessings for the couple
Local kids
It is then that we encounter a series of bad luck with our motorcycle. While trying to move off on the motorcycle, out of nowhere the machine lost its balance even before moving and fell on its side, breaking the right brake lever into 2. In order not to let the owner rip us off by charging high for repair, we decided to repair it ourselves which really is quite expensive anyway for a lever(20k=$4).
Fixing the brake lever
Picked ourselves us and sped off away again stopping at a 3 sites along the way. Local delicacies

First one.At the side of the road where many young children ages 4-7 were picking up small rocks. Oliver thinks they are picking it to sell, i however did not think it is the case. We tried to ask and of course they did not understand what we were saying.Nonetheless we helped them with the rocks for awhile. Stop No. 1
Cheese!!

2nd.A village house with super hyper kids. The little boy would shout and wave hello and run into hiding. 2 seconds later, he would emerge and do it again. Whenever i motioned him to come, he would run and hide before being pushed out by his sister. LOL really cute kids Village house
Happy kids
Happiness doesnt mean you need to be wealthy

3rd. We stopped by this long row of Mandarin oranges stalls at the side of the road. We sat down and bought 1kg of orange(5000kip=$1) and out of a sudden, a flock of ladies, teens to young mums came to us. They probably dont see alot of foreigners down here. Talked to them in my every so limited laos and they got really interested in the language guide at the back of oliver's Lonely planet. At the end of the day, we made a few new friends Farm and Sai and a few others i cant remember. As the sun was starting to set, we had to make our way back to avoid riding the dark. Before we left, they even gave us another bag of oranges for free!!! What a kind bunch of people. Mak kiang(orange) for you?
Why is a planet lonely? Ah oliver! popular with the girls!
I cant lose out to him too eh!

As we rode on back, the road seems to be never ending. It didnt felt this far when we came. Every minute past and the sky grew darker. Soon, we were riding in complete darkness. To make things worst, the headlight on the motorcycle was very weak and i could hardly see beyond 5meters(yes i was riding). In order to get back as soon as possible, i started to speed in this empty road. 30mins of 70km/h in darkness, i felt my bike fishtailed! Fortunately i kept calm and not jam my brake which would lead to a fall. A flat rear tire!! What luck. Pushed our way to the nearest repair shop to get a new inner tubing(50k kip=$9). This is the 2nd time we fixed the motorcycle today! Was feeling very shitty that we had to spend 70k kip to fix a motorcycle we spend 40k kip to rent. Fixing our flat tire
As soon as it was done, we continued back again in the dark. Just when i thought the worse is over. We saw a car speeding towards us on a bridge and while trying to avoid it, i had swerved my motorcycle onto the side road pebbles. It started to lose control and we both fell over the skidding machine. Fortunately i had anticipated this and had slowed down considerably. We were hurt with some bruises and scratches and fortunately no bones broken. With blooded knees and palms, we rode on!!

Next we had another problem!! The fuel needle is at EMPTY!! I had to slow down and ride without consuming too much to finally make it back to town!! Lucky for us, the guy who rented us the bike was not around and is replaced by another guy who did not spot the damages on the motorcycle. Small wounds, nothing serious

Clean our wounds and spend the rest of the night in our guesthouse with our aching bodies. Dinner was the ubiquitous banana and chocolate pancake(10k kip=$2) aimed at foreigners in this town. Picture this, roti pratha with banana inside drizzled with chocolate and condensed milk. Mmmh Mmmh! A great way to end an eventful day!Banana and chocolate pancake(roti pratha)!

The next day, Oliver moved on to the capital of Laos, Vientiane. I had been on the move every day since i stepped into laos and needed a day of rest, basically doing nothing. The weather was hot with a hint of sun, perfect to do some tubing. Ask anybody about Vang Vieng and tubing(55k kip=$11) would be the first to come to mind. The name comes from the tractor wheels inner tubing which they inflate and you will use it as a float to drift down the Nam Song River 3km north of town.

A pretty relaxing thing to do i supposed until i realise that the water was going far too slow and if i am late, i would have to pay a "overtime" charge and i would have to be in the freezing water in the dark!! Argh!! Anyway along the river, there would be close to a dozen "bars" of sorts selling all kinds of drinks and full of westerners drinking and jumping away. It is great if you are into that sort of thing.

Fortunately i met Penny, an Australian who i met on the trip to the caves and waterfall(see last post) and she is on a kayak tour! She offered to give me a ride back to town!

Another favourite of vang viengs is the numerous restaurants serving laos and western food. All of which will have a TV or 2 inside screening either Friends, Family guy or Simpson's. If you are going to eat in this town, pick your favourite series instead of the place since the food will be the same no matter where you go.

After a slow and easy day, i am all charged up to move forward again! Plan for today, early kayaking(85k kip=$15) for some caves and immediately hop on a bus for the capital Vientiane.

Fake ocean pack about US$10 each. Quality is better than i expected
Our kayaks!
First up! Water cave!! The name comes from the fact that the whole cave is flooded with water and the only way to get around is to use one of the tractor tubbings and head torch. With our guide leading and singing his traditional laos song, we pulled/paddled our way into it. Even though there was not much to see inside, it is a fun experience. Recommended. Water cave
And off we go!Picnic lunch by the river side! Indescribably heavenly
I know honda dream and honda wave and when did they come up with a honda love?

After lunch we started our 3 hours kayaking down the nam song river, the same river that i had went for tubing the day before. In this tour, i met a few nice people including a guy from poland, a girl each from beijing, shanghai and hongkong. We stopped by one of the "bar" where the poland guy went to do his jump into the river. While doing so, he had left his wallet and camera on the bench covered by his hat. Even though a few of us were standing around there, someone had stole it away while we were watching him jump. A good tip if you are even going to do tubing or kayaking. Always leave your belongings with someone, or better yet, just bring small amount of cash for your drinks and leave everything else in your guesthouse! By bringing it, you risk losing and drowning our valuables!!

Brief instructions by our guide
Hong kong girl with a guide
tubing, a favourite past time of many in Vang vieng Jumping as well, especially when you are drunk

Remember i said i had planned to catch a bus straight after kayaking. Because of my newly made friends, i decided to stay 1 more night and leave early the next morning.... Dinner watching rerun episodes of Friends

It is on this bus that i met the most amusing bus driver i ever met. The moment he start the engine, his endless bus horn begins.. for the next 3.5hours. In a typical case, people horn to warn others of dangers to prevent accidents. For him, even though the next 200m was empty with no cars and no people, he still blast his horn away! Reason for doing so, to tell people he is coming and to take his bus!! Basically he wants to earn more money, so much so that he overcharge even local people which was often rebuked and he offered a refund of the excess anyway. Empty morning streets

Fortunately i had my ear plugs with me...